Electric Guitars.
How to do just about anything, including :
Buying, Setups, Wiring, Pickups, Repairs, Modifications
plus Money saving tips and more.
Electric Guitars.
Frontispeice: Gibson Double 6, model number EDS1275.
Index.
Section A: “Household-name” electric guitars
Section B: A brief history.
Section C: Parts -what is and what it does.
Section D: Buying a guitar.
Section E: Important -strings and stringing.
Section F: Intonation -essential setup facts to sound and play [at all] well.
Section G: General Setup,Fender type setup, Gibson type setup.
Section H: Basic wiring/soldering and modifications. De-mystifying things a bit..
Section I: Standard wiring diagrams and customisations.
Section J: Body woods and tone.
Info guide: General info, know your weapon.
Info guide 2: More pickup info.
Info guide 3: Tips ,further setup info and mods.
Info guide 4: Cleaning and storage
..and finally.
Section A:
“Household-name” electric guitars
All names and trademarks below belong to their respective owners,especially Fender,FMIC [Fender Musical Instruments Corporation]and Gibson,GMIC[Gibson Musical Instruments Corporation]
This book starts off with 3 classic electric guitars -although,not the only ones; above are the Fender Stratocaster (introduced 1954) and Telecaster (1951). Below is the Gibson Les Paul (1952).
There are many variants and even sub-types of these guitars,but these instruments remain popular due to their good playing nature, resonant sound characteristics and classic design.
Below are some great budget guitars based on those designs. The Dearmond M65C and Yamaha Pacifica 112 are a good choice for a second hand buy,as they may have only had 2 or 3 years light use,whilst being able to stand up to a fair amount of abuse.
New Budget guitars can also produce some great bargains such as the Epiphone Special II and Squier Affinity series Telecaster.
Shown below is Mr Fender and his wonderful design for the tremelo/vibrato system used on the Stratocaster.
This bridge system can be an effective tool for adding sounds to your arsenal, however, it is very tricky to use well,fast and keep the guitar in tune at the same time.
For this reason I suggest that your first electric guitar should be one with a fixed bridge, like the two above. With frustrated learner and a guitar in a fight, the guitar always loses.
The tuning is much more stable on cheaper guitars without a tremolo bridge. One less thing to go wrong.
Section B.
History and different designs.
Although other people such as Paul H. Tutmarc [a very early patent holder for electric guitars] had made electrified guitars before the 1930s, on a small scale, the first commercially successful one, in any degree, was the Rickenbacher Frying pan.
In the late 1930s band/big band guitarists needed louder instruments to keep up with the other loud instruments used in the pre WWII good time music and jazz.
A notable electric guitar of the time was the Gibson ES150, used by the Charlie Christian in his fluent jazz music.The ES150 [ES150=Electric Spanish 150] Hollow - bodied or Archtop was introduced in 1936, with one single coil (bar) pickup at the neck position, and was fairly similar looking to the typical,acoustic,“Jazz guitars” of the time.
Where things start to shake was the late 1940s when Leo Fender introduced his first Single cutaway Solid Bodied electric guitar and the early 1950s when Les Paul persuaded Gibson to make the guitar he had designed,they'd done this one their own merits..
Fender's first design was the 1948 Broadcaster,. later renamed the Telecaster. (Modern 1950s reissue Telecaster shown.) Although it's a deceptively simple looking guitar, most guitarists will have an affection for it~ as it is capable of a unique range of tones ..and can even “impersonate” a Les Paul. This is demonstrated on the first Led Zeppelin Album.
Les Paul and Gibson's first design was the 1952 Les Paul (Goldtop).- 2003 Gibson Custom shop reissue shown.
However, the later, Humbucker equipped, Les Paul model has probably become associated with this guitar the best and most “classic rock” bands have used (a derivative of) this guitar. (2003 Les Paul Standard shown.)
Notice the differences in pickups and the bridge arrangement - these two (main) factors mean that there is a world of difference between the two guitars. Another rock-shocker is that Pink Floyd's jangly rhythm guitar on “Another Brick in the Wall” is a 1950s Gold Top, when everybody I know thought it was a strat.
The Telecaster and Les Paul, or variants of them, have been in production ever since..now that's successful.by way of comparison the only Car to have remained in production, virtually, as long is the “Austin” Mini [Mini 1].
Both Mr Paul and Mr Fender's Impacts on the fields of recording and electrified music are far too large to do justice to here, I would write more, but, you want to know about the GUITARS..right?
There are two other important models to consider in the field of “modern” guitar design the Fender Stratocaster (Current model Standard Stratocaster shown).
The Stratocaster was important for the tremolo system and the variety of tones available from it's 3 single coil pickups., it's relative cheapness and ergonomic design.It must have seemed out of this world when people saw them 50 years ago.It has won awards from people in expensive suits in expensive buildings, so they can put one on the wall, and not have to get their fingers dirty playing it.. Atypical recording= “Reeling the years” -Steely Dan, and most of Jimi Hendrix' essoteric playing is made using one of these - no-one would have imagined it.
Here's the Gibson ES335. Current model ES335 shown.
The ES series is a semi hollow or F hole design, you can see why it's called that. The acoustic and electric properties of this style of guitar make it incredible.Typically used by the great Mr Chuck Berry and usually used in Rock and Heavy Rock the ES is capable of incredibly sweet tones such as the solo in “I Can't Tell You Why” by The Eagles.
The 4 models - The Telecaster, Les Paul, Strat and ES range provide the basis from which most, if not all modern electric guitars are derived..although I will also tip my hat to Ibanez for the Jem series and their other innovative designs.. (Jem 77 shown).
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and Dean Guitars for,well,most of theirs.(Dean Cadillac Select shown).
The other Popular design,these days, is the Gibson SG which is originally derived from the Les Paul,and again it's a tonally different instrument.
These are the models you will find in most guitar shops and many far eastern firms are now producing very acceptable copies at very low prices...however, to get a copy to perform as well as the original design it will always need upgrading,whether that upgrade is a simple setup or a pickup change.
Discussing the tones of guitars on paper is, in the end, “like dancing about architechture”, as the witty Mr Frank Zappa put it. SO you should try some,soon.
For reviews of most production guitars you can visit www.harmony-central.com/Guitar/Data4
Please be advised that all of the reviews are the opinions of individual owners.
From my own viewpoint and experience I find the reviews in “Guitarist” magazine to be quite accurate.
Section C:
Parts.
Parts :
This is a Left handed Stratocaster.
Differences between Left and Right handed : a misconception is that the pickups* are different -with a few exceptions they are not, certainly not at budget or beginner level. They have the same amount of magnet in, and wire around, them whether they are placed in a guitar which is made Left or Right handed. There is also the possibility that the neck profiles may vary between left and right handed, but, I doubt that, other than that- and the fact that the guitar is ”reversed” for left handed people to play- there's not VERY much to worry about ...unless you're a hardcore Hendrix nut who wants to "reverse" their guitar. Jimi played a right handed Fender Stratocaster (upside down as he was left handed).
*Pickups are explained, a little more , later.
Abbreviations
Here are some frequently used abbreviations which you will come across on internet sites and in print advertisements for guitars.
Lester/LP = Les Paul.
St =Strat.
Te/Tl/T =Telecaster.
R/N =Rosewood neck
M/N =Maple neck ...can mean either neck wood or fretboard wood so check before buying..
The actual neck wood will, probably, either be Mahogany or maple.
Jap =Made in Japan,high quality workmanship,in general.
S/c =Single coil.
Hb =Humbucker.
Pu/Pup/s =Pickups.
S/b =Sunburst finish.
3/5 way = 3 or 5 position selector switch
.
V/Vol =Volume
T/Ton =Tone
W =Watts (for amps) should give WattsRMS [root mean square] because a 15W rms amp rating will give you a much fairer indication of reliable ”Power” than 100Watts peak ,whatever that is.
RI=Re-issue.
So as you can see , although they're a bit different in design, the basic parts of an electric guitar are the same.
Short, sharp Glossary.
Bridge=Part where the strings ride, usually in saddles, which are adjustable for intonation,Basically put correct intonation means that the note sounds correctly [that is: not sharp or flat] at a particular fret.
Humbucker=Convoluted pair of single coil pickups wired so that they "buck" hum.That was the original intention, anyway.In practice they sound wholly different to most single coils.
Inlay= Usually a piece of hard shiny material, used to mark fret positions. Typically at frets 3,5,7,9,12,15,17,19 and 21.
Jack(socket) =1/4 inch mono plug used for plugging the guitar in.
Machinehead/machines=Tuner "bank"at top end of guitar neck.
Nut= Deceptively "simple" piece of hard material guiding strings to tuners,[and much more beside].
Pickups= Cardboard, insulation , plastic, insulated copper wire, magnet , steel.. explained in more depth later.
A Pickup is one or more coils of wire which convert the movement of the string into a small "electrical" signal.
That signal is then amplified by the amplifier (what..never!! )to make your musical and joyous tones/strata of sonic death.
As pickups are , more or less, the“engine” of the guitar they've got their own section, later.
Pickguard/scratchplate= piece of fancy plastic , stopping the rest of the guitar from becoming scratched by the pick!
Pots/Potentiometers=Control knobs operate potentiometers to adjust your guitar's volume and tone.
Stoptail/tailpeice= String "anchor" for fixed bridge, Gibson type, guitars.
Tremolo/Vibrato=Wobbly bit with rod for Fender type guitars allows all 6 strings to be raised or lowered in pitch, a tricky device to master.
Don't get worried about the ins and outs of all this stuff just yet ..just find a guitar which you like the sound of and that your hands fit.
Playing the guitar.
Section D:
How to go about looking for a guitar, particularly your first.
Your first guitar... the most important word here is YOUR,your parents or mates will not be playing this instrument (as much as you) so do try and ignore what they think..you may have to live with YOUR decision for a couple of years.
Choose carefully.
Electric guitars are more adjustable to individual players and easier for those without huge hands..although some fine acoustic guitars can be had for small money,lately.
There are two main categories that guitars fall into: Set-neck and Bolt-on. Although bolt on necks (turn it over to check) have a reputation for worse sustain and less worthy qualities than set neck guitars,think of all the classic tracks recorded with Fenders and similar. At the lower and medium end of the market the difference is not really worth a damn.
What matters more than that is the quality of the wood used in the body and neck ,plus the sound quality of the pickups. One of the reason that a lot of people favour Squier (standard) and Yamaha (Pacifica) guitars is that the quality of wood is high and is similar to that used in the Fender guitars which they copy. The unfortunate thing is that you're unlikely to get a guitar with a nice resonant body,good playable neck and decent pickups,for much under £200, although those listed above do make a really good attempt at it.
In theory if you are offered 2 identical guitars one with bad sounding pickups,but, which strums, nicely unplugged and one which is loud due to good pickups pick the one which holds the note the longest unplugged and vibrates against your body the most.
Go to your local music shops and play all those there in your price range and those slightly above it ..even if you don't like the look of them, your hands may fit Les Paul copies better than Strat copies or vice versa,hate Telecasters?..well you may find you..really don't when you play one! Do bear in mind that it is still hard to sound like a famous guitarist as they always have top-notch gear,also remember,it's even harder to sound like a Strat player using a Les Paul and vice versa..people do think all electric guitars can be made to sound exactly the same,which isn't the case.
However, you should do some research and keep your mind open here...If you are trying to sound like a particular guitarist you may be surprised at the guitar which they used on a recording ..it may be totally different to that which they use on stage and that they became famous for.
For example Keith Richard [Rolling Stones] used a “saturated” Acoustic guitar on some of his most famous riffs, Jimi Hendrix recorded using Gibson Flying Vs and others Jimmy Page used Stratocasters in the studio and Def Leppard used a Squier Telecaster on their most recent record.
If possible, borrow a guitar player/teacher or at least someone who can wrangle a few notes out of one and who knows what controls and various levers are supposed to do.
It may take while to cover those guitar models a shop has got.
Go to more than one shop, as some are more willing to help than others (understatement) and prices can vary a lot,even on cheaper guitars or how much the store wants to shift stock...and they all want to shift stock.
NOTE : Saturday is a BAD day to test guitars in shops, as this is the music shop's busiest day of the week.
Go to the guitar shop mid week and there is less chance of you being pelted with "Heavy Mental" at ungodly volume.
Don't dismiss a guitar because of a "cheap" name on the headstock or what colour it is, it may suit you just right and sound fine...if it really bugs you-- you could cover it up with stickers,that isn't really the correct way to treat an instrument,unless you are happier with it that way.
The best way is to play it unplugged, if you can hear yourself over any other noise in the shop..because the way a guitar resonates unplugged is what translates to it's tone when plugged in. Some argue about that..in my experience [playing roughly 24 yrs] this is a fact and cannot be disputed.
Don't believe me? -well, try flexing a pencil and then a ruler against the edge of a desk - like you used to do in school- which is the more entertaining?..the ruler because it vibrates and flexes against the desk. A dull and lifeless unplugged tone is, usually, just louder when amplified and will not project as well. Think of the pencil as if it were a cheap guitar body,less tone is got from less resonance,in general.
If,at this point you are itching to get your hands on a guitar,then 2 of my "instant recommendations" are the yamaha Pacifica 112 and the Squier Affinity Telecaster. Both are cheap, quite strong, stay in tune quite well and will give you a taste of what a fairly decent guitar is like...of course there are some lemons out there so..with your first ever guitar..Play it well before you buy it.
I still own a Yamaha Pacifica 112 and have not found a cheaper Strat copy I like better ,the neck is rather narrow though so not much room for chunkier fingers.
Neck shapes: The shapes around the back of the neck of guitars do vary considerably, from a thin wide “C”section to a quite deep“U”,so you'll have to try a few different guitars to see which one suits your hands better,this is important as you need to be able to compromise between being able to change notes at lightning speed,eventually, to having enough [correctly shaped ]wood under you hand so as not to damage it.G et a guitar with a thicker neck rather than a thinner one - why? try holding a 10-12mm thick piece of wood between your thumb and forefinger, then try it with a 25mm thick piece, the thinner piece is more painful as you are stretching your hand futher to grip.
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In the end it is up to you.
****Important point to note. Shops invariably let you test guitars on very nice amplifiers, well,you may not be able to afford such a nice one.. so ask if you can use a 10 or 15 watt amp to practice with. That is a typical size starter amplifier and will give you a truer picture of how the guitar will sound at home ,allowing for the difference between the shop and the room at home you play in.
Stick with one small amp for now, you can always try the different practice amps when you've decided on the guitar. Squier/Fender, Marshall, Vox and Peavey [and many others] make decent little practice amps.
["Instant recomendation"try the Fender Frontman 15, Marshall MG15 and Vox Pathfinder]
Ok, you're in the shop and you've just found the guitar you think you want to take home.
Questions to ask yourself.
1.)Can I fit my hand round this neck comfortably?
2.)Can I reach the riffs I want to / can I bend strings and hold chords comfortably?****
3.) What do the tuners seem like - do they have any play in them or do they seem to hold quite well?
4.) Do the controls (switch and knobs) operate without crackling/binding/hissing?
5.)Do the strings buzz,do the notes "Choke of" if i try and bend them?****
6.) Can I insert and remove the cable jack of the guitar without damaging the guitar? Does it make noises doing this--is the jack socket well screwed in..have a look as this is a problem with some guitars.
[[7.) For those who have some experience--Take your tuner with you,does the guitar intonate correctly?/check the nut height.]]
8.) Check to see if all the screws and hardware seems to be securely fitted to the guitar.
9.) Is the finish free of any blemishes, flaws,cracks,etc.
****If you get trouble with 2 and/or 5,it could be either your playing style or the action
of the guitar - NOTE: if you cannot play at all, then get the salesman to play the guitar to see if he seems to be having any trouble with it,observe closely.
In the case of 2 the strings may need to be lowered, in the case of 5 raised.
Action is the height of the string above the fretboard and (for now) is adjusted by raising or lowering the strings at the bridge. For a well playing guitar,action should be in the range of 1.5 to 3 mm at the 12th fret,the fret just under the two dot marker while looking toward the body of the guitar.
If you get problems with these,and NO guitar is perfect remember, tell the salesman and get them to sort it out for you. Don't try and pretend that you know everything about guitars, if you don't [and I am sure I don't] ..salesmen know that if customers aren't satisfied they will walk...just tell them the problem in your own words and ask politely if they could fix it. If they can't or won't, remember that there's another shop up the road.
Please remember that manners cost nothing and a good relationship with a music shop can get you some great deals.
All this is common sense,but, easy to overlook if you get excited..and guitars should be exciting as well as practical.
Questions to ask the salesman.
1.) How long is the warranty?
2.) Do you do a free first/6 monthly setup? (setup basically means checking that all is playing and functioning correctly especially the action.)
3.)Will you let me trade this up to a more expensive guitar?..some shops are more fussy than others here, but, if you get fed up of your first one then it would be nice to know going upscale is more hassle free.
4.)Will you let me exchange it for something else?..ie, in the first week or so you decided you really wanted the XZY guitar and not the ABC..dont try and“sample” everything,though.
If you cannot decide between 2 or more guitars make a list and note down their merits and faults,you may then want to either add up the plus or minus points and decide like that OR throw the list away and go from your heart. It's up to you. Buying a guitar is ,at least, as emotive as dispassionate a process,but,do try to be objective about your purchase in overall terms.
Mail Order/Internet: A few things to know; Set neck guitars,such as PRS,Gibson and copies have necks which break more easily than Fender type guitars and necks can (not WILL but CAN) be broken in shipping.
Make sure you get the model details EXACTLY right on the order form/phone as,for example, a Pacifica 311 is a Telecaster copy and a Pacifica 312 is a Stratocaster copy and not the next model up.
Stuff happens.. such as breakage,or defective parts on guitars which are mail ordered..you may also incur extra shipping and handling charges..look WELL at the site/order/general info before you leap.Especially the section on liabilities and transit insurance
A brief word on necks and pickups.
2 main kinds of fretboard:-- Maple and Rosewood.
Their perceived differences are:
Maple =lighter wood,gives slightly springier more trebley tone in general.
Rosewood =dark wood,give slightly more bluesy tone,less trebley....but it's all in how you play them.
The feel of the two kinds of wood can be quite noticeably different, too.
Pickups: 2 types,in general:
Single coil=more
trebley, strong bass
and treble tones,not much midrange.Clear and articulate for clean
sounds,may not be "thick enough"in
tone for some. Found on Fender Types.
Humbucker=two
coils opposed to each other to "buck" hum,strong bass
and mid high tones,great midrange,may
sound muddy,muffled for clean work.Found on Gibson Types.
and then there's the P90 type which often has to be heard to be believed. Difficult to describe..but can be "kinda"like a cross between a Single coil and a Humbucker. Found on more scarce guitars,usually Gibsons,or copies.
Here's a brief buying re-cap.
Good Luck,and take your time.
(click link for next section)
Stringing a guitar.
Notice:© Written content,except where noted as by other authors or locations, and CD operating format belong to the Author, James Graham. Copyright on this CD, CD operating system and the materials presented herein remain the copyright of their author.