Section E: 

Stringing a guitar.

Now this is not quite as simple as it sounds.

When changing strings it's best,at first, to stick to the gauge that is supplied with the guitar.Typically these are 9s, meaning that the thinnest E string [first string] is 9 thousandths of an inch in diameter.If you have a Strat type guitar and fit a larger set of strings you may find that this will upset your tremolo system and pull the bridge up at a whacky angle.On non tremolo guitars using larger gauge strings when learning will,probably, just make playing more painful.

When you go to change your strings-- change one at a time-- start off by threading the string through the tailpeice or guitar body.

and take up almost all of the slack to the tuner post [the post sticking up from the machine head..Try and leave 2-3cm or so slack to allow wrapping the string around the post].NOTE: All strings end up facing the Centre of the headstock,whether you have a Fender or Gibson type guitar.

With modern tuners- tension the string with one hand and wrap the string through the post. Make sure all following winds go under the first one,as this will lock the string in place.DON'T allow the string to wrap over itself as this may cause it to slip. Once you have about one wind on the post check that the strings are located correctly in any string retainers and are in the right nut slot for each string. Tune to pitch.Hook your fingers under the new strings and pull them up as far as you reasonably can.Do this a few times. Retune the whole guitar.

Cut the excess string length off with some side cut pliers and make sure you don't take anyone's eye out.

Seriously do be CAREFUL those things can be sharp.

Now you may find that your tremolo system appears to have taken a powder and nosedived toward the neck,if this is the case you can remove the panel on the back of the guitar and add an extra spring to the string claw,which should sort that problem out,if it does not have a guitar shop look at it for you.

Additionally note that if you go up from a guitar which originally was set-up with 9s to an 11 gauge set,then you will need the nut cut wider,to stop the larger strings binding and causing you untold misery. If your nut needs work it's best to seek the advice of a professional luthier or repairman,

Section F.

Intonation and other,related, matters.

There are many myths related to, and misdescriptions of, the process of Intonation.

So what IS this I word?

Simply adjusting the bridge's saddle back or forward so that any fretted note will sound at correct pitch -that is "all" there is too it.

All fretted instruments have compromise built into them by design,a feature of this is that you have to set the distance of each string's bridge saddle (from the nut) individually.

The intonation must be set properly or notes will not sound correctly,and, on cheaper guitars with an incorrectly set nut height (too high in general) EVEN WITH the inonation set correctly as below, certain chords will sound out of tune due to the player having to press the strings down too far from the their open position to the fretboard.

The main CORRECT way to do it is to tune the guitar to (standard) pitch,sound a HARMONIC over the 12th fret, by pressing your finger lighly on a string, tune the harmonic to correct pitch on your electronic tuner,then [and only then] fret the 12th fret note. You want to adjust the bridge so that the fretted 12th fret note and the harmonic 12th are exactly in tune.

If the note is FLAT when fretted move the saddle FORWARD toward the nut - in small increments of about 1mm/1/32nd at a time- continually checking,of course, to see when the two notes match exactly.

Conversly if the FRETTED note is SHARP move the saddle BACK toward the bottom end of the guitar,toward the strap pin -again in very small increments checking it all the time.

Very fiddly on ocasion,but, not difficult. If you encounter great resistance or stiffness when trying to move the saddle -slacken the string THEN move the saddle,then retune and start the process off all over again.

DO NOT rush this process as saddles and screws can be butchered by it. Your mind must be "Present" and not watching television or otherwise distracted while you do this. It may be wise to lubricate any saddle screws with a TINY amount of WD40 before you start adjusting.

NOTE: Change your strings/string gauge and set neck relief, pickup and action height BEFORE setting the intonation as old strings,String gauge changes,and all of the above can affect the intonation for the worst.

 Section G.

Setting up guitars. 

Here are some basic tools that you will need to get started:

• Set of automotive feeler gauges (.002 - .025”)

• 6" ruler with metric( mm) 1/32" and 1/64" increments,preferably

• Phillips screwdrivers and flat bladed screwdrivers

• Electronic tuner

• Wire cutters and/or sidecut pliers

• Peg winder

• Light machine oil (WD40, 3-in-1, toy locomotive, or gun oil)

• Guitar Polish (houshold polishcan damage some finishes -check with guitar shop if unsure)

• Plus a 30watt Soldering iron, 60/40 lead tin solder and soft cloths

• Set of allen keys in the range 1.5-10mm

• Cheap elastic Capo

In this section we'll be concerned with setting the height of the bridge saddles correctly so they give a clearance of around 1.5 to 2mm,less that 1/16th”, at the 12th fret. This is the action. Provided the frets and neck are reasonably true, you can lower the saddles until the strings begin to buzz then raise them until the buzz stops.

I'm loathe to insert Internet links throughout this,book,although I have to at this point,for the reason that,they contain some real gems on setup and anything that I say on this subject is derived from what they have done,especially in relation to Dan Erlewine's work be absolutely 200% sure thatyouknow what you are doing - especially when adjusting truss rods, you can ruin the rod or the nut or even the neck.

Read with attention,the sections on ajusting the height of bridge saddle for your particular guitar (type) as this is something that you should be able to do comfortably with a shortpractice.

Note: While adjusting anything on a guitar,if it feels too stiff _it may be too stiff_ and may break,either slacken off (in this case,the strings) first or take it to your local guitar shop if you are unsure of your abilities.

Please read the following guides carefully.

Guitar Player/Dan Erlewine Setup guide.

Specific info for Fender type Guitars.

 Reprinted from above web-link.

Mr.GEARHEAD™presents 5 Steps to a great set-up.

If you want to get the most from your guitar, but you’re not exactly sure where to start. here are five easy steps that youcan follow to get your guitar playing great.

Here are some basic tools that you will need to get started:• Set of automotive feeler gauges (.002 - .025)• 6" ruler (with 1/32" and 1/64" increments)• Phillips screwdriver• Electronic tuner• Wire cutters• Peg winder• Light machine oil (3-in-1, toy locomotive, or gun oil)• Polish and cloth•Capo.

Step 1. Changing Your Strings.

Strings are the life’s blood of your guitar. When your strings aren’t in top form, neither is your guitar. In order for strings to provide the maximum performance, they should be changed on a regular basis. Strings that have lost their integrity (worn where the string is pressed against the fret) or have oxidized, rusted or are dirty respond poorly.

To see if you need to change your strings, run a finger underneath thestring and feel for dirt, rust or flat spots. If you find any of these, you should change your strings.

Always make sure to stretch your strings properly. Afteryou have installed a new set and have them tuned to pitch, hold the strings at the first fret and hook your fingers under each string (one at a time) and tug lightly, moving your hand from the bridge to the neck. Re-tune and repeat several times.

Step 2. Making Bridge Adjustments and Setting Intonation.

There are numerous types of bridges, but one basic point that should be remembered; ensure that there is sufficient break angle of the strings over the saddles (at least 30º).

Much of the remainder of bridge adjustments, as in the case of setting a floating tremolo, is determined by personal taste.

At this point you can pre-set the basic intonation of your guitar, by taking your tape measure and measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the 12th fret (the wire, not the fingerboard).

Double that measurement to find the scale length of your guitar. Adjust the 1st string bridge saddle to this scale length, measuring from the inside of the nut to thecenter of the bridge saddle. Now, adjust the distance of the 2nd string saddle back from the 1st saddle, using the gauge of the 2nd string as a measurement (Example: If the 2nd string is.011" you would move the 2nd string back .011" from the 1stsaddle).

Move the 3rd back from the 2nd saddle, using the gauge of the 3rd string as a measurement. The 4th string saddle should be set parallel with the 2nd string saddle.

Proceed with the 5th and 6th in the same method used for strings 2, and 3.

Step 3. Adjusting Your Truss Rod.

The purpose of the truss rod is to counteract the tension placed on the neck by the strings. This tension can be affected by movement of the wood from environmental influences like temperature and humidity. To adjust your truss rod:check your tuning, then install a capo at the 1st fret, depress the 6th string at the last fret.

With your feeler gauge,check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret - the measurement should be approximately .010".

Adjustment at headstock(Allen wrench): If neck is too concave, (the guitar in playing position, looking up the neck ) turn the truss-rod nut counterclock-wise.

Too convex—clockwise

.Adjustment at neck joint (Phillips screwdriver): If neck is too concave, turn the truss-rod nut clock-wise. Too convex—Counter clockwise. Check our tuning, then check the gap again with the feeler gauge. In either case, if you meet excessive resistance or need for adjustment,or you’re not comfortable with this adjustment, take your guitar to your authorized Service Center.

Step 4. Setting Your String Height.

Players with a light touch can get away with lower action,others need higher action to avoid rattles. Check tuning.Using 6" ruler, measure distance between bottom of stringsand top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles or if your saddles are preset, the bridge height adjustment screws, to

approximately 4/64". Experiment with the height until the desired sound and feel is achieved.

Step 5. Adjusting Your Pickup Height.

Set too high, pickups can cause a myriad of inexplicable phenomena. Depress all of the strings at the last fret. Using 6" ruler, measure the distance from the bottom of the 1st and 6th strings to top of the pole piece.

Adjust the distance with the two outside pickup mounting screws.

The distance should be greatest at the 6th string - neck pickup position,and closest at the 1st string - bridge pickup position. The distance will vary according to the amount of magnetic pull of the pickup. When you’ve completed the above steps you should be ready to rock. Remember guitars are tempered instruments,retune, play and make further adjustments as needed. Most of all, have fun.

Mr.GEARHEAD™www.mrgearhead.net.

Specific info for Gibson type guitars.

 Reprinted from above web-link. 

 Why do some guitars seem to just play themselves? In many cases it's simply a matter of "setup" -- getting the neck, the string height and the string length just right for your individual playing style. Here's a step-by-step procedure for easy, do-it-yourself guitar setup:

Tools needed:

Nut driver, 1/4" or 5/16". You'll probably need one specially made for guitar truss rods. Purchasing info is at the end of this article.

Metal ruler or straight edge, 20-25" long

Small ruler with 1/16" increments

Put on new strings. String action (height), fret buzz and intonation will vary with different string gauges and from old to new strings. You want to do your setup under actual playing conditions, so string your guitar with the gauge of strings that you're going to play. If you're replacing strings on a new Gibson, most solidbody electrics (Les Pauls, ES-335s, Nighthawks, Flying V's, SG's) come from the factory with light gauge strings, beginning with .009. The Chet Atkins SSTs and hollowbody electrics (ES-175) come with .010s. Most flat tops are strung at the factory with medium gauge, beginning with .013.

Tune up. Again, your guitar needs to be in playing condition, so tune up to standard pitch (or whatever tuning you'll be using).

Check the straightness of the neck. Use a straight edge to determine if a truss rod adjustment is needed. If the neck is bowed, there will be a space under the middle of the straight edge where the neck does not touch the straight edge. If the neck is "backbowed," the frets will touch in the middle of the straight edge.

NOTE: A slightly bowed neck is ideal for most playing styles. A perfectly straight neck generally requires higher string action than a slightly bowed neck in order to minimize string buzz at the higher frets. Repairmen describe this as giving the neck some "relief" to allow for string vibration. The amount of relief necessary varies with playing styles, however. A perfectly straight neck may be fine for a very light picking style. If your neck has only a slight bow, you may not want to make any adjustments to the truss rod.

I like to start with a perfectly straight neck. If I can't get the neck straight, then that indicates other possible problems, such as high frets (frets being pushed out of their slots), low or worn frets, or variations in the fretboard itself, Many older guitars have a "bump" in the fingerboard over the neck block, for example. All of these problems are fixable, but require an advanced level of repair experience.

Adjust the truss rod(if necessary). First remove the truss rod cover. If the neck has too much of a bow, then the truss rod should be tightened with aclockwise turnof the nut. For a clockwise turn, the arm of the nut driver should start on the treble side of the fingerboard and move toward the bass side. Don't turn the nut more than a quarter of a turn at a time. For a backbowed neck, the truss rod should be loosened with acounterclockwise turnof the nut. When the neck is as straight as you can get it, then back off about a quarter of a turn for "relief."

Check string height.With the small ruler on top of the fret, measure the distance to the bottom of the string. (You can also use a feeler gauge for these measurments.)

The string height at the 1st fret will determine if the nut slots have been cut to the proper depth. If the nut slots need to be deepened or filled in, that's a job for a pro with the proper tools.

The string height at the 12th fret will determine whether the saddle should be raised or lowered.

Gibson electric specifications are:

1st fret- treble side - 1/64"

1st fret- bass side - 2/64"

12th fret- treble side - 3/64"

12th fret - bass side - 5/64"

Gibson acoustic specifications are:

1st fret- treble side- 1/64"

1st fret- bass side- 2/64"

12th fret - treble side- 5/64"

12th fret- bass side- 7/64"

Adjust saddle height.On an electric guitar with a tune-o-matic bridge, or on an archtop guitar with a height-adjustable bridge, the thumbwheels will raise or lower the bridge. You may have to loosen the strings a bit to get the bridge to raise easily. On an acoustic, the bottom edge of the saddle will have to be shaved or sanded off to lower the action, or shimmed or replaced to raise the action. You'll have to loosen the strings to remove the saddle, then file it down on a flat file -- just a little at a time -- and then replace the saddle and tune up again. Don't try to file the top of the saddle, since it's rounded to match the radius of the fingerboard. And make sure the bottom remains flat or the bridge will want to rock in its slot and not make good contact with the top of the guitar.

If you are unable to bring the strings to a comfortable height for playing, you may need a neck set. Another option is to remove the bridge and either shave it down or replace it with a higher one. The optimum height for a wood bridge on a flat top guitar (just the bridge, not including the saddle) is 3/8", so if you're going to have to go much above or below that, the neck set is the better solution. Either way, it's a job for a pro.



To lower the nut slots, special nut files are required that are available from guitar shop supply sources. We get ours from Stewart-McDonald. Set nut slot depths to specs listed above for first fret.



Check for fret buzz using a medium pick or light finger touch, check all fretted notes for string buzz. If correct, move up the next step. If not, some fret leveling may be required. This is another procedure for a pro with the right tools.



Check intonation. At the 12th fret, play a "chime tone" by touching the string without pressing it to the fret. Release your finger from the string as you pluck it. You should hear the octave overtone. Now press the string to the 12th fret and play. If the tones match, then the intonation is correct. Notice that the 12th fret tone may vary according to how hard you press the string down.



Adjust intonation. On an electric guitar with a tune-o-matic bridge, the length of each individual string is adjustable. If the 12th fret tone is higher than the string's natural octave overtone, then lengthen the string by moving the saddle toward the tailpiece of the guitar. If the 12th fret tone is lower than the octave overtone, then move the saddle toward the neck.

On an electric guitar with a wraparound tailpiece, the tailpiece can be adjusted only at the treble end and bass end. It is usually not possible to achieve perfect intonation for every string with a wraparound tailpiece. If an individual string is out of tune, you may be able to compensate by replacing that string with a higher or lower gauge string.

On an acoustic archtop guitar, you can only adjust string length by moving the entire bridge. Loosen the strings so that bridge will move freely without scratching the top of the guitar

On an acoustic guitar, the bridge can't be moved but it can be "intonated" so that the point where a string crosses the bridge is either forward or after the center of the saddle. In some cases, a thicker saddle is necessary to accomplish this. Intonating the saddle should be done by a professional and it can correct only minor intonation problems. Major intonation problems on acoustic guitars -- especially older models -- may be the result of an improperly placed saddle. In these cases, perfect intonation can only be achieved by re-routing the saddle slot or installing a new bridge and saddle.



Advice. If you want to attempt some of the more advanced setup and repair procedures, such as fret leveling, neck set or saddle replacement, first arm yourself with the proper instructional and proper tools, then try your hand on a junker guitar before you attack your favorite instrument.

For further reference:Parts, tools and repair books: Visit Stewart McDonald's website atwww.stewmac.comto order a catalog and browse through repair columns by Dan Erlewine.

Books and videos on guitar setup and repair:

Stewart McDonald, www.stewmac.com

Elderly Instruments,
www.elderly.com

JK Lutherie: www.jklutherie.com

Truss rod nut driver/wrench: Many Gibsons came with a wrench-type nut drive, with a small arm mounted at a 90-degree angle from the truss rod. The pros use a nut driver with a 6-inch shaft that ends in a T-bar. You can order either style from Stewart McDonald at 800 848 2273:

Wrench type 1/4" (for Gibson electrics and some acoustics), part #944

Wrench type 5/16" (for recent Gibson acoustics), part #946

T-bar nut driver, 1/4-inch, part #941

 

Section H:

 

 

Wiring, soldering and modifications.

Notice:© Written content,except where noted as by other authors or locations, and CD operating format belong to the Author, James Graham. Copyright on this CD, CD operating system and the materials presented herein remain the copyright of their author.