Tip Jar.
Obvious and cheap modifications to improve scrappy low end guitars.
As with all modifications on this site,no resposibility is taken whatever for how you choose to interpret, implement,or adapt any of my modifications for your own purpose. This information is given in the spirit of experimentation,however,my experience does show that everything here works.
1.) Tip.
A trip to a local model shop yeilded a set of precision files [for nut slotting,etc] for a good price.They also have brass plates,etc. As ever check your dimensions or take the part you want to modify with you,when you go.
So don't overlook model shops.Machine shops and small ironmongers can be good too,but,in the main, giant diy superstores have bits which are too coarse for guitar detail work.
2.) A long tip
A lot of old and (usually bargain basement cheap) new lower end guitars have the hideous "tincan tuners",which people have struggled with over the years.
Here are some ideas on how to improve them.
My bottom end Squier came with these tuners,except they were "upmarket" versions ie; the bearing surfaces were better and they had little "spring plates" in there to tension the things.
Here's an idea of what i'm talking about.
Pictures linked for cheapskates with slow modems/free isps..still large pictures though
Re: the yellow line in the above photo.
If you want to take some of the slack and wiggle out of the post,you know, the slop you feel when you put a new string in- you can bush the shaft,using a soft material from a wooden dowel to just filling the hole with candle wax..I suggest that a bush should be sited just above the yellow line in the photo.Candle wax can work if done painstakingly,but, ain't ideal unless you just want to "improve" the tuners if someone's buying it,it's really a last ditch thing..
..recent choices for bushing my posts were Maplin part number JX71N which is a tapered small rubber grommet costing about £1 for a pack of 10..parts QT93/4 may also fit...
obviously you wont want anything in there which can,potentially,split the headstock wood open.
The tuner shaft diameter for these tincan tuners is approx 6 to 6.4mm [id] and the hole varies from 7.5 to 8.7 mm..[approximate] od.
Disassembly sequence
1.Remove tuner cover/mounting screws (x2) at rear of head stock.
2.Pull out tuner.
3. Unscrew black screw.
4.Remove copper gear from bottom of tuner post
5. Put parts in conveniently located small receptacle. You may have to remove the worm gear/tuner head to get a springplate in there..but,that's really down to circumstances.
[That cosmetic bushing is known as a "ferrule" and does little except make the top edge of the tuner hole look tidy,as there is too much gap between it and the tuner post THAT IS VERY BAD DESIGN.]
The springplate fits between the gear and the back of the base plate,the round edge should go to the outside of the tuner's base plate and the square edge bears against (the middle of) the worm gear,this tensions the tuner and if the springing is SET CORRECTLY takes the slop out of the feel when turning the tuner head/key.
You can make your own out of a peice of plastic modelling card [model shops >£1 a sheet] or thin springy metal..don't overdo the tension or you won't get the worm gear back in it's (bearing) recesses and it'll be hard to get the gear over the tuner post end!
The next photo shows the shape of the springplate more clearly.
More tuner twidlin'
OKAY, your tuners will not now be custom Waverleys, but, your tuning WILL be better,oh yes.
Assembled tuner.
Reassembly sequence,a small vice is handy here.
1. Fit bush to tuner post.
2. Fit worm gear to it's "bearing".........
Important point: MAKE SURE you put the worm gear into the tuner's back plate the right way round -check BEFORE you do up that screw, mister! or you'll be kickin' youself as all your fiddly work has to be undone..
3. Poke tuner post through backplate.
4. Fit springplate..mmm..over the end of the post and under the worm gear.
5.Angle post, fit gear over springplate/ post and hand tighten the screw [note the oval slot in the base of the gear]..orient post so gear will pull into worm.
6. Check screw is lined up with threads in post and do up screw.
7. Check the bushed tuner FITS the hole and doesn't knock that pretty ferrule out of the top of the head.
8. Mount tuner.
9. Fit cover and mounting screws back into rear of headstock carefully.
My cheaper guitars do stay in tune surprisingly well now.
If you are to lazy to wrestle with this kind of malarkey,and it is a lot of work,initially, try here,
Good and cheap tuners (£10 a set)
ask for exactly what you want and get advice as they may not know the EXACT model you are talking about,if replacing tuners take one with you or at least measure it comprehensively.
NOTE--tuners like the one in the link have an approx 10mm od and will need the headstock holes reamed or drilled to fit them.
3.) Not strictly a tip.
New CHEAP Amplifier added to site it's a simple battery amp ..simple..and relatively cheap
New info on how to build battery/low powered amplifiers on the cheap.
4.) Another tip:
Thin [approx 1/2"] wide PTFE tape is excellent for taking up the slack in tunomatic bridges and tail peice studs,carefully wrap a turn or two in the middle of the threaded stud so that it clears the end of the stud and you still have room to make metal to metal contact to get the good vibes through. Used on my Dean Evo and Epi Special this also slightly spreads the studs apart and lightly holds the bridge or stopbar on. It is not a tone-pros setup or substitute but is cheap and stops rattles.
Subtip :stop unwanted tunomatic retainer wire rattles= stick it to the bridge with a peice of electrical tape,wont damage anything and is easy to remove.
5.) A long subsection.
A basic guide to wranglin your own humbucking pickups..the very lazy way.
WARNING: May cause coniptions,microphon[ics]y and family discord unless you are capable of troubleshooting.
Do not make your first experiments using a Burstbusker or similar boutiqy-q type pickup The type of pups to benefit will be sub £/$20 ones
Why do this?: Cheaper humbuckers or humbuckers on cheaper guitars usually use ceramic magnets with huge or erratic gauss fields often resulting in muddy and indistinct tones from the pickup.It is easy to remedy this by obtaining an Alnico 5 bar magnet from Allparts. AL5 Bar magnet.
This is what I set out to tell you how to do now.
Right, assume you have the Alnico 5 bar from now on.
First off: Obtain a polarity checker or small horseshoe or U magnet with polls [N and S marked on it],a pencil,some masking or electricians tape,a candle,a hairdyer,cloths,appropriate screwdrivers,small jar or receptacle.
First unsolder wires [pickup's conductors] at earth and switch[es] and write or draw which wire came from where [there'a a lot to do and you MAY forget] then carefully undo 4 mounting screws on pickup surround .Put screws in receptacle. Make sure each and all screws you remove go into this jar for ease of memory. Remove pickup assembly which will look something like this 
If it looks like the one on the left [but still in it's surround/mounted] you'll need to unsolder the cover,take it easy and dont burn yourself.
Note: I recommend unsoldering covers with the pickup still in the plastic surround [still mounted] as unsoldering can generate large amounts of heat ,and if you need to grip something you can grip the plastic mount with far less chance of a burn.
Once it looks roughly like the one on the right.
Then remove the mount screws and springs, place in jar. You now have a naked humbucker. Turn it right side up.
There are 2 lots of 6 polls in two bobbins, screws are obvious and the other side are called slugs.
Before you go any further check the magnetic polarity - thus. Find out which poll of your horseshoe magnet sticks to a screw. The screw side polls will be the opposite of this. IE, if North sticks it is a South polarity.
If South Sticks it is north. Write the appropriate letter [N or S] on top of the bobbin. Write the opposite letter on the other bobbin.
next carefully unwrap and store the outer layer of tape which goes around both bobbins.
Now undo and remove the screws holding one coil to the bassplate, [eg,the two upper OR two lower screws in the above picture] secure the screws. Loosen, but, do NOT entirely remove the other 2 screws. Carefully remove the unsecured coil from the baseplate. Leaving you with something resembling the picture below.. Take care not to disturb any of the existing wiring
Note if there are any spacers and make sure you keep and replace them,if originally fitted.
NB:At this point you'll probably notice that there is a lot of wax around, which may be adhering to some parts this wax is used to stop the parts vibrating and causing microphonics and feedback. Try not to dislodge too much of it. Next remove the existing magnet from between the slugs. Put the Alnico 5 bar in it's place in the same polarity as the old magnet..check the bobbin tops if unsure.
Keep the pickup bobbin side up,if possible.
Remember the New magnet's polarity should be the same as the old or you can cause polarity issues making the finished pup sound thin and out of phase with the existing one.
How to Pot Pickups and get rid of squeals, From John Aitchley and Crew at Guitarnuts.com.
A very useful site.
This just shows all the parts of a humbucker and the potting wax.
At this point gently "nip" the magnet under the coil which is still on the plate,by tightening the two screws slightly. Mount the other coil, which should stick itself in to the magnet. Loosely tape around the whole pickup with you roll of masking tape,from screw to slug side,so as to secure the loose coil correctly for mounting [this may not be necessary].
Line up the loose coil's holes with the holes on the baseplate , Carefully screw the baseplate mount screws home making sure you don’t run the screws into the coil! AND double check that the magnet is equally fitted in relation to all 12 polls -ie,make sure it's fitted as the old one was and is lined up properly. Don’t over tighten but try and ensure both coils sit level and flush. If they don’t sit square you've probably left out a "shim" or spacer, which you should have taken note of. If this does occur then either cut a new one[to match the one you have left] from inert material such as soft wood or plastic of leave them out entirely. At this point have a break and get a hairdryer and a cloth. Hold the pickup in the cloth. Heat the pickup and re-tighten the mount screws again, gently.
If you are unable to run to submerging your pickup in wax what you can do at this point is get a candle, hold the pickup in the cloth and run wax in to the gaps between the coils. More wax=more mess and YOU have to clean it up. Next. Let wax settle. Lay pup in cloth, reheat the whole pup with hairdryer, and check screws and level. Let wax harden, go and do something else for 45 minutes. Remove excess wax with a pick/visa card type scraper.
Re-tape the finished pickup with the original outer bobbin tape. Replace cover if appropriate. Mount to Pickup surround.Install.Solder.Enjoy.*Note: a neck pickup usually needs to have the bridge pickup taken out as well so you can see how to thread the conductors back to the control cavity.
Good luck.
Guitar project have written a more thorough version,with a slightly different take.
Guitarattack also has good info on this subject.
Here's another one of mine comprising a Strat copy Slug side and Ibanez Powersound Screw side, it’s "staggered" and works fine in my Pacifica.
It's been in the middle position of the Pacifica for 2 years and sounds like this,with the mids right down,using a "brit stack" setting on a Korg AX100g running into a Vox cambridge 15. They called it uglybucker..and it came and ate them.
Note although sounds are all subjective, and you may find you take a while to get used to the new magnet I very much doubt you’ll find you want to go back to the ceramic magnet.